Wednesday, November 30, 2011
Sunday, November 20, 2011
engine oil testing
The friction-fighting properties of synthetic lubricants have been well established by now. Second only to making sure you change your oil at regular intervals is the need for a high-quality synthetic oil. Even if we disregard the performance benefits offered by the reduced friction, the improved lubrication and protection from thermal breakdown are reason enough to step up to the cost of synthetic lubricants. Not filling the crankcase with synthetics can be likened to running your turbo engine on low-octane fuel. Under most conditions, your boosted engine will tolerate the cheap stuff, but when you really need it most, the lesser octane can subject your turbo engine to deadly detonation. While the oiling situation likely won't be as dramatic, it is possible to spin a be
aring or two under the heat of battle using conventional oil. Sure, synthetic oil is slightly more expensive, but a portion of the added cost can be recouped by lengthening oil change intervals since synthetics are less susceptible to contamination. But even if you do choose to schedule your changes every 3,000 miles, doesn't your performance engine deserve the good stuff?Saturday, November 19, 2011
engine oil treatment
Until new additive technology came along to reduce oil burning, oil leaks, valve tap, power loss, and fuel waste problems, the remedy took a $3000+ repair to do the fix.--- Not anymore, thanks to what I call my Mega Power Worn Motor Oil Change Treatment.
Before I tell you how this mechanic-in-a-can product stops those problems, let explain what causes them.
Oil burning is caused by stuck-closed and sticky piston rings, piston wear, valves stem wear, and valve stem seal wear.
Those conditions makes it easy for engine oil to be sucked into the combustion cycle. Over time, the motors oil level drops two to four quarts of oil, as a result of this "siphoning off" of your motors oil.
Other negative problems begin. The first of which is that much more combustion can slip pass stuck or sticky piston rings - and worn pistons, leaving less combustion amounts to push the piston down. It takes more fuel burning to make up for this loss - and this lower fuel economy averages.
That escaped combustion - slips pass the pistons and drenches the lower park of the motor, and its oil with hundreds of degrees hot, acid-loaded combustion gases.
This creates massive amounts of oil-breakdown sludge. That starts valve taps and worn engine sounds. Excessive wear begins. The blackest oil you ever seen shows up on your dip stick. Seals dri-out, causing oil leaks all over your underside, and driveway.
The Mega Power Worn Motor OIl Change begins a week earlier, to start undoing the causes of oil consumption problems. That is when 3 of the six products are installed. One in the fuel tank, one into the air intake/vacuum side, and one is added to the oil. Driving helps the chemical process during the week.
The motor will begin to run great again, and oil burning will subside as the rings, valves, and sludge is removed.
A week later, the 3 remaining products are use just before and after the oil change.
By inventive use of different cleaners, penetrating oils, friction modifiers, oil stabilizers, and coating additives, the motor will chemically be "overhauled out of a can!
These 6 different products in the "kit," costing about the same price as that of a good oil change, makes any high mileage, older motor run like near-brand-new in less than an hour. Then stay that way indefinitely, with minor touch-ups at each oil change. The oil will now stay clean up to 6000 miles. Oil consumption will be minimal again. I have this method in my older vehicles, enjoying trouble-free driving, for an extra 50,000 -100,000 miles.
Friday, November 18, 2011
engine oil comparison
The most basic criterion for a car owner is to consider the engine's money-saving features. In this area, the diesel engine fares better. Gasoline engines use fuel and air to create combustion. The diesel engine, on the other hand, relies solely on air compression and can attain combustion all by itself, thus doing away with spark plugs and tune ups. This means that diesel types get better fuel economy because of their self-combustion abilities. The diesel fuel, because of its high fuel density, allows diesel-engine drivers to save twenty to thirty percent in fuel consumption. Furthermore, in terms of fuel price, the diesel fuel is cheaper compared to the gas fuel.However, when pitted against each other for initial affordability, the gasoline engine easily wins. Diesel engines, by known fact, are much more expensive that the gasoline-run ones. This is probably so because of the diesel engine has a stronger torque power compared to that of a gasoline engine. The former has enough torque to haul heavy equipment and can very easily ascend steep terrains. Because the diesel engine was built to sustain added stress of higher compression and cylinder pressure, diesel engines have a longer road life compared to gasoline engines.
But the diesel engine is not without its quirks and shortcomings. Motorists find the diesel's noisy and rattling run very annoying. Gas engines are far more capable of giving a smooth and relaxed ride as they only vibrate. Gasoline engines perform better in terms of acceleration. Because diesel engines do not have their own spark plugs, it is more difficult to get these engines to start up. This is hard to especially during winter season where the cold weather slows down the rise and combustion of the diesel fuel. There are, however, turbo-diesel variants that are said to deliver quicker acceleration.
Thursday, November 17, 2011
engine oil for petrol cars
The benefit of servicing your own car is to save money, and let's face it in today's current climate of rising fuel and garage costs we can all save money by carrying out some basic servicing essentials. The following basic guide has step by step instructions that will give you the information on how to give your car a basic engine service including oil change, oil filter, fuel filter and spark plugs.Please note that the following is meant as a guide for the standard petrol engine only and therefore should not be relied upon as fact as all vehicle manufactures differ.
Equipment Required
o Oil-drain plug spanner / suitable tool.
o Oil-filter pliers / suitable tool.
o Spark plug spanner / deep socket with extension bar and ratchet.
o Jack and axle stands.
o Clean rags.
Oil & Oil Filter Change
The engine needs to be warm before starting these procedures as this will allow the oil to drain more freely.
1. Raise the front of the car with the use of a jack and then support with axle stands.
2. Using an oil drain plug spanner or a suitable tool, loosen the oil drain plug at the bottom of the sump and using an oil drain plug spanner or suitable tool slacken the plug approximately half a turn.
3. Position an oil pan directly under the drain plug and remove drain plug allowing the oil to run, be aware that it may take some time for the oil to drain completely.
4. Clean the drain plug and sump using a clean rag then refit the drain plug securely, ideally fit a new sealing washer before refitting plug.
5. Move the oil pan and position it under the oil filter.
6. Using oil filter pliers or a suitable tool loosen the oil filter then unscrew it by hand and empty the oil into your oil pan.
7. Wipe away all oil from engine-filter area with a clean rag.
8. Apply a light coating of clean engine oil to the new filters seal and screw into place firmly by hand.
9. Once you have removed everything from under your vehicle lower the vehicle to the ground.
10. Unscrew the oil filler cap positioned on top of the engine and pour in the specified grade of oil for your vehicle. Continue to do this until oil reaches the top mark on your oil dip stick and refit filler cap.
11. Start engine and allow it to idle for a couple of minutes.
12. Turn off engine and check for any leaks, allow the engine oil to settle for a few minutes then check the oil level at the dipstick again and top up as required.
automotive engine parts
One of the greatest difficulties in the automotive engine rebuilding industry is finding the correct engine parts to accomplish a comprehensive rebuild. Although many aftermarket internal engine part manufacturers are available, over the last several years we have observed major development in offshore manufacturing. This presents specific problems for engine builders and automotive enthusiasts.
There is no question that a worldwide transfer of manufacturing has occurred. China is the main benefactor of the reduction in USA production. Even though this supplies distinct short-term financial relief for folks building their automotive engines, the permanent ramifications are diminished parts accessibility, quality declines and extended waiting periods to acquire bought components.
The tolerances of engine components manufactured overseas normally aren't held to the same specifications as they are in the USA. Whether it is tooling wear from mass manufacturing, or the inability to complete finishing, a lot of the machined engine parts made in China are substandard and outside accepted tolerances. This pushes many local automotive machine shops to undertake the finish machining themselves to make sure that their reconditioned engines will perform as intended and tolerate many years of use.
Just lately, we had a a new imported engine block delivered to our auto garage that was made in China. There was casting sand in a few non-critical sections of the engine block. The piston cylinders were outside of specifications and there was a bit of rust on the crankshaft main caps. Though these conditions were quickly repaired, the fee to the client increased dramatically because the cylinder block needed to be bored and honed once more. Fortunately this customer didn't pay for pistons beforehand, because the standard bore pistons couldn't work in the engine block after it was bored oversize.
The challenge when acquiring engine blocks, and associated internal engine parts from overseas vendors, is they aren't close by if a problem arises. Unquestionably we could have refused the engine block, although the fee to deliver it back to China would have been more costly then the repairs that were performed.
Being unable to contact a nearby or domestic business to support components used in rebuilt engines is a difficult problem for some specialized automotive machine shops. Many of these shops work hard to build extremely high quality engines. But when faced with a shrinking domestic manufacturing base, they are finding that producing quality work is becoming more difficult and more costly in the end for their valued customers. This is part of the reason why so many local machine shops are letting their customers know that by building their engines locally, and supporting domestic engine part manufactures when able, each customer is helping to preserve an industry that can be utilized by future generations.
